Vinales. Day 1

After the whole Playa Larga nightmare episode, my next destination was Vinales, the so-called Cuban country side. When reaching the bus stop in Vinales, about 20 jineteros jump on me at the same time, pulling my arms and my shirt to try to convince me of their "fabulous" accommodation offers. Outside it was raining, I was sweaty, hungry, my skin was completely itchy from the mosquito bites and could not even open my guide book to see where my previously reserved accommodation was. As they didn't take no for an answer and kept following me on the street, I start speaking in Romanian to them- that's a language they wouldn't understand for sure. They start talking between them in Spanish saying that I am stupid and trying to devise a strategy on how to get me. Meanwhile, cab drivers start approaching me. I manage to get a very quick glimpse of the map and I see the house was 7 mins walk. He asks for an enormous price of CUC 3 (in Santa Clara for 3x the distance we paid CUC 2.5). Because the rain was falling down heavily, I decide I will take the taxi, but I tell him I won't pay more than CUC 1. He tells me to go and swim for that amount. Another cab driver sees the whole scene and the herd of 20 jiniteros still following me, probably takes pity of me and says he will drive me. I finally arrive at the casa particular I had booked in advance. I must admit that by this point of the trip I had it with my trip in Cuba, I was just waiting for something else to go completely wrong or someone to be disrespectful. I honestly couldn't wait to go to Mexico, my next country, hoping things will be better there.

But then a ray of sunshine finally showed up. I arrived in the most welcoming and friendly casa particular I've ever stayed in Cuba. It was Villa de los Reyes where I was firstly welcomed by the elder Reyes lady, which from now onwards I will call my Cuban grandmother. She reminded me so much of my grandmother who is the kindest person I have ever met and I miss her dearly. Whenever I went to my grandparents house I felt like I was the most spoiled child in the world and everything they did was to please any wish I had. This is how I felt in this casa. It was like my childhood was coming back to me all over again, it was my tranquil oasis.

In the evening I went to visit the farmer of the elder Reyes who is one of the most passionate farmers I've met. He greated me with a fresh cold lemonade and then showed me all the crops and the fruits. Then explained to me about the animals he's raising at the farm. As you can see from the photos, even made a very good friend, this rodent creature who ate all my bananas and then literally closed his eyes of enjoyment when I pet like I normally pet my cat. What a little rascal!

The farm visit ended with a wander across the mountains and the valleys and then I made my way back to the village and the casa. There my Cuban grandmother was waiting for me worried I got lost and enquiring about my tour. Then laid out dinner and made me try for the first time frijoles verdes, a sort of beans soup. It was so good that I've asked for a second portion, making my Cuban grandma laugh of my request.

After dinner, we sat on the rocking chairs and Cuban grandma told me that back in the days they didn't dance salsa, but this type of dance called danzon and this was at balls and during New Years. Then when talking about her grandson, she told me that military service in Cuba is compulsory for young men aged 16 or 17, it is not paid and lasts for 3 years if you don't go to university.

Lastly, she enquired about me and my life in London and we spent hours chatting into the night and listening to the crickets, just like I did so many times with my grandmother on those hot summer nights in the Romanian country side...