I know I've already posted about salsa dancing in Cuba, but my last night in Trinidad deserves an entire new post. It was incredible, still can't wrap my head around it, will hopefully try to put it into words for the moment (Ying, my friend whom I've met at the salsa class has some photos she will send to me and after I will share them with you). But it was probably one of the best nights I'll have on this trip.
After the salsa class, Ying (my new Chinese friend I met earlier on in salsa class) and I decided to go for dinner before hitting the town. We opted for a place called Guitarra Mia which is in my opinion the best place for dinner in Trinidad. It had an old colonial wooden interior, candlelight dinner, incredibly friendly atmosphere. To top it up, a random troubadour walked in and starting playing the Spanish guitar. The sound he was making was like the guitar was crying. I was completely hooked!
When the waitress woke me up from my reverie to take our order, I opted for the local dish: tostones rellenas (deep fried bananas stuffed with minced crab and garlic). Delicious! To that I added 1 glass of homemade pina colada. OK, two pinas coladas :)
Next, we went to Palenque de los Congos Reales. This was an open patio where initially a live band was playing son (it's the same style that those from the famous Buena Vista Social Club play; authentic Cuban). After, we had the chance of seeing another eclectic show: soulful African rhythms and energetic glass and fire-eating dancers. They were holding such a still and terryfing facial expression interrupted from time to time by some tribal screams that some ladies stood up from their chairs and left.
At some point, they needed a volunteer for one of their acts. One of them snucks behind me and points me to go on the stage. I politely decline. The next second, he completely ignores my gesture, grabs my arm and gets me on the stage. There I am faced with the ultimate challenge: stepping/dancing over the edge of a sword which was poking a man's belly. Was not too keen on doing that, but, hey, who can say no to some terryfing African tribal dancers?
At the end of the show when they collecting the usual tip for the performance, someone comes behind my back and gives me a kiss on my forehead. It was my salsa teacher greeting me already like an old friend. When telling him that Ying and I want to move to this famous Las Cuevas club, him and a salsa teacher friend of his say they want to join us.
While the 4 of us were walking on the street, the police stops them and asks for their IDs. Then they start investigating them with regards of what they do and so on, the whole thing lasting a few minutes. At the end, I was my salsa teacher what was that about. He tells me not to worry as it's a routine check up. Obviously not satisfied with this reply, I dig deeper and find out that this happened because they were with two turistas. "In Cuba", he says, "the tourist needs to be looked after. We need to make the country very safe for them". Then he tells me how 10 years ago as a Cuban you could get into trouble if you addressed a foreigner on say the bus or train.
We start making our way to the club. This was literally climbing a hill through the middle of a forest on the outskirts of the city. "Where on Earth are they taking us?", I thought to myself. And then we see it. OK, I knew the place is called Las Cuevas which stands for literally "The Caves", but I imagined it'll be a place decorated cave style, not that we will be descending into an actual underground cave to dance salsa!! The interior was impressive, they've fixed huge speakers to the cave walls and you could totally smell a different air. Somehow, you could not feel at all the cigarette smoke.
Right after Ying and I paid for our entrance fees (CUC 3 per person, the equivalent of USD 3), we notice that the salsa teachers didn't follow us in. When looking back, I see them making a sign to come back. When approaching them, they tell us they don't have enough money to pay for their own entrance fees. Ying and myself decide to pay for them. I said to myself this is a tip for extra salsa lessons and decide to still have a great time.
The atmosphere inside was incredible. Lights reflected in a special way in the cave, everyone was dancing, everyone was smiling, it was definitely a good time. At some point, they play "Represent, represent Cuba", the Spanish version. Never seen something like this in a club. Literally everyone was off their chairs and the Cubans were singing and dancing the lyrics like they were the ones to have composed them. Magnetic and crazy!
Not long after that, our salsa teachers start an impromptu performance. They both dance to a reggaeton song, bending all over to the floor in perfect syncronizing, gathering rounds of applauds.
I have learned how to dance many styles that night: merengue, reggaeton, salsa, son, bachata and many others.
On my way home, after dropping Ying at her casa, I head towards my accomodation which was 7 minutes walk. Nobody was on the streets at the time. Suddenly, at some corner I see the police car. One of the officers steps out of the car and makes a sign to approach him. After he ensures I speak Spanish, he starts asking me all sorts of questions such as where I am from and where am I staying in Trinidad. I was impatiently thinking I do not have any sort of ID on me.
Hearing I am from Romania, he asks if I am from Transylvania (classic questions I get asked quite often). When he hears I am not from Transylvania, he follows: "Ah, I knew about Transylvania since that is the home of Dracula. But I actually know that Dracula was inspired from a leader that you Romanians really love and respect and he defended you against the Otoman empire. It was the German-born writer Bram Stoker who inspired himself from these stories and came up with Dracula".
I literally was in deep shock when I heard this. For 8 years since I left Romania, nobody who is non-Romanian and has never met any Romanians knew this story and so accurately. Eveyone thinks that the vampires originate from Romania and very, very few actually are aware that our leader that inspires the story of Dracula is actually respected and we consider him as one of our representative leaders of all time.
I had to know how come he knew that. He said: "I know from this application on my phone. It's called Wikipedia". Then he adds:"What are you doing tomorrow? Would you like to go on a date with me? Can I have your phone number and e-mail address?".
Ay, Cubans!
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