Day 2 in Vinales

Day 2 in Vinales in this magnificent tranquil nature place and I decide to go on a horse riding tour. I had left my boots and my large trousers in Havana to pick them up before I leave, thus I was completely unprepared and unable to take the tour. But fear no more, my Cuban grandma goes in the backyard and pulls out a pair of old Converse shoes 3 sizes bigger and a pair of white old trousers. This woman's kindness was incredible!

Before I leave, she gives some last tips on riding and warns me I will have a sore bottom after 4 hours of riding.

Not long to go that I meet the guide and Pinto, a white horse with some dark spots which got him the name. We were going to spend the next hours together. Well, let me tell you that Pinto was one kind of a horse! He could not bear not being the first horse in the trail and he only listened to me when it was convenient for him. Kind of like me, hehehe!

This was though my first horse riding experience and I simply loved it. Mighty Pinto on the way back even decides to go galloping, so I was definitely tested on holding my balance.

We went through fields and forests, visited a tobacco farmer's place and a cave in total dark (where of course I managed to lose myself from the group together with two other Spanish from the group and they went looking for us with light torches).

Below you can find a video with me riding Pinto who gets scared when seeing some equipment and completely side tracks, again testing my balance.

At the end, I was pleased to notice I had no pain in my body like the other tourists were complaining, just a little bit of overall tiredness. Maybe a newly discovered passion?

Vinales. Day 1

After the whole Playa Larga nightmare episode, my next destination was Vinales, the so-called Cuban country side. When reaching the bus stop in Vinales, about 20 jineteros jump on me at the same time, pulling my arms and my shirt to try to convince me of their "fabulous" accommodation offers. Outside it was raining, I was sweaty, hungry, my skin was completely itchy from the mosquito bites and could not even open my guide book to see where my previously reserved accommodation was. As they didn't take no for an answer and kept following me on the street, I start speaking in Romanian to them- that's a language they wouldn't understand for sure. They start talking between them in Spanish saying that I am stupid and trying to devise a strategy on how to get me. Meanwhile, cab drivers start approaching me. I manage to get a very quick glimpse of the map and I see the house was 7 mins walk. He asks for an enormous price of CUC 3 (in Santa Clara for 3x the distance we paid CUC 2.5). Because the rain was falling down heavily, I decide I will take the taxi, but I tell him I won't pay more than CUC 1. He tells me to go and swim for that amount. Another cab driver sees the whole scene and the herd of 20 jiniteros still following me, probably takes pity of me and says he will drive me. I finally arrive at the casa particular I had booked in advance. I must admit that by this point of the trip I had it with my trip in Cuba, I was just waiting for something else to go completely wrong or someone to be disrespectful. I honestly couldn't wait to go to Mexico, my next country, hoping things will be better there.

But then a ray of sunshine finally showed up. I arrived in the most welcoming and friendly casa particular I've ever stayed in Cuba. It was Villa de los Reyes where I was firstly welcomed by the elder Reyes lady, which from now onwards I will call my Cuban grandmother. She reminded me so much of my grandmother who is the kindest person I have ever met and I miss her dearly. Whenever I went to my grandparents house I felt like I was the most spoiled child in the world and everything they did was to please any wish I had. This is how I felt in this casa. It was like my childhood was coming back to me all over again, it was my tranquil oasis.

In the evening I went to visit the farmer of the elder Reyes who is one of the most passionate farmers I've met. He greated me with a fresh cold lemonade and then showed me all the crops and the fruits. Then explained to me about the animals he's raising at the farm. As you can see from the photos, even made a very good friend, this rodent creature who ate all my bananas and then literally closed his eyes of enjoyment when I pet like I normally pet my cat. What a little rascal!

The farm visit ended with a wander across the mountains and the valleys and then I made my way back to the village and the casa. There my Cuban grandmother was waiting for me worried I got lost and enquiring about my tour. Then laid out dinner and made me try for the first time frijoles verdes, a sort of beans soup. It was so good that I've asked for a second portion, making my Cuban grandma laugh of my request.

After dinner, we sat on the rocking chairs and Cuban grandma told me that back in the days they didn't dance salsa, but this type of dance called danzon and this was at balls and during New Years. Then when talking about her grandson, she told me that military service in Cuba is compulsory for young men aged 16 or 17, it is not paid and lasts for 3 years if you don't go to university.

Lastly, she enquired about me and my life in London and we spent hours chatting into the night and listening to the crickets, just like I did so many times with my grandmother on those hot summer nights in the Romanian country side...

Top 3 things I didn't like about Cuba

All trips have their good and bad parts. I came to Latin America knowing that I will be exposed to rules, systems and experiences which are not like what I am used to back home. There were however a series of things which made the Cuba trip a bittersweet memory. I will discuss these below and give tips on how to overcome some of them.

-Jineteros: The Spanish word for hustlers. These people were everywhere!! In your face!! Trying to get you to stay at their places, eat at their restaurants, grab a taxi, drink at their bars etc. You get the point... But in some places such as in Vinales and Trinidad tourists were seriously outnumbered by these jineteros (1:20). They would literally would not take no for an answer and would follow you on the streets. Moreover, they would try anything, including making up stories. Once when they've asked me where was I going and I just invented a restaurant name. They told me: "It's fully booked". For a name I invented.

In other cases, they would tell you that the casa owner where you've booked is dead. Or would carry a big sign pretending they are from the place where you reserved online (these jineteros have all read Lonely Planet and know the names of the most recommended places).

Most of the times not only that they want you to eat at their restaurants or sleep in their casa, but would charge you extra for taking you there (somewhere around the area of CUC 5-15, the equivalent of USD 5-15). Some tourists I met from Germany told me that when they arrived to Havana almost in front of the hotel, these jineteros pretended to be bell boys from the hotel and offered to carry their luggage. When they arrived in front of the hotel, the jinetero asked for USD 10 tip.

-Tipping and ripping off system. While in Cuba, I definitely felt that the high costs endured every day by Cubans would definitely be passed onto tourists. They would try to squeeze out money of you for everything. When taking the national bus, at some of the bus stations they would ask me for USD 1 tip for putting my luggage on the actual bus (which is something that would have happened regardless). At some point, I refused to pay for that. They still put my backpack on the bus regardless. However, this Serbian couple I met said they were afraid to refuse each time people were asking them for propina (=tip). Moreover, accepted every price without negotiating. As an example, I negotiated a taxi fare to the airport for CUC 18. They ended up paying almost double, CUC 30.

Another clear difference was between prices paid by tourists and prices paid by Cubans. As an example, to get to Playa del Este from Havana which is 10km away Adelina and I were asked for CUC 15 one way. We met some Cubans on the way and they told us to go with them. We ended up paying CUC 1 cab fare.

-Men. This is a very sensitive topic. As a girl travelling alone, I unfortunately was many time harrased by Cuban men. Before I dwell into this topic, I need to make an important point: never for a second did I feel threatened. Cuba is one of the safest countries I have visited.

Now, back to the difficult topic. Basically, 95% of men I have interacted with during my whole stay in Cuba tried to make a move on me. And they do not know how to take no for an answer. At some point, being exasperated, I felt like I want to run to the countryside and hide in a room literally not to be harrased by them. Flowers, love songs, marriage proposals, following me on the street were on the daily schedule.

Moreover, I speak Spanish. That definitely did not help at all. As I already said, Cubans are very innovative. They literally tried every way to hit on me. The moment you exchanged more than 2 sentences, here it was. "Eres linda" (you are beautiful). "Tienes novio?" (Do you have a boyfriend?). "Quieres salir conmigo?" (Do you want to go out with me?)

Some of them were funny. But unfortunately other experiences were off limits and absolutely creepy. I remember that in Playa Larga this random guy pretended to be the owner of the casa and that he will help me book the tours I needed only to have me talking with him to tell me how he is arrogant and different than all of the other Cubans. After 2 hours of chat, he couldn't stop with invitations: massage, go bathing together etc. I literally had to go next door to get rid of him. And he still wouldn't help me with my tours. When I got next door, the other owner started chatting with me, I've asked him to help me with booking my tours. He did help me and kept on coming to the beach every 5 minutes. At some point, he invites me for a Pina Colada and tells me that all he wanted the whole day was to see my beautiful boddy and I ever considered... (did I mention he was in his 50s??). Suffice to say that Playa Larga was not the best experience for me.

Another bad example that I heard is that in Varadero, the most touristic resorts, Cuban men go to receptionists, ask which ladies are single staying at the hotel and then ask to point them on the beach. Then... attack!!

Many couples I've spoken with told me that guys were hitting on their girlfriend with them being present. Absolutely no limits!

But since the assaults were so prevalent, I had to find out the reasons as I have never encountered something like this in my life. Thus I did challenge some of the Cubans I met on my way why are they so crazy. The reasons were many. "Cubans are romantic and sexual", explained one. "Cubans are looking for a visa to get out of the country. It's because of the poverty. They would do anything", another said. Also, I understood that there is still a clear line between locals and foreigner. One of their wildest fantasies is to be with a foreigner. Preferably white skin and blonde and who speaks Spanish.

However, another reason that simply was outrageous to me was actually the encouragement on behalf of the foreigners. This 50 year of French lady claimed that she enjoys coming to Cuba and being picked on as nobody does that to her in France. Other cases I've heard with foreigners is that they pay them to get their... services.

Solo traveller

This photo was taken taken during our last night in Havana. The second day, my dear friend Adelina, had to leave Cuba and I continued on my own. Though we initially planned to travel the whole time together, sometimes things don't work out. But I am very grateful to my dear mecla for the absolutely amazing time we spent together, she is such an inspiration and an amazing friend to have due to her big, big heart. She also enjoys and appreciates travelling as an enriching experience. I couldn't think of a better person to start my journey with as she is a perfect travelling buddy for me: loves trying new cuisine, music and dancing, and enjoys the local experience. I am happy to have Cuba chapter added to our friendship story and looking forward to many more!

Extra: At the time of writing, I have already left Cuba. I can say that travelling alone was definitely an interesting experience, though this was for the first time I did in my life. Out of of 9 days I was a solo traveller, I have never spent an evening alone, but one (when I was in bed shivering with fever). I have met people all over the world and I have had the change to chat with locals many times to hear their perspectives on Cuba. During the day, I often visited cities with other tourists and made great friends. Maybe it is Cuba, maybe it's the openness of people travelling abroad, but it was dek definitely very easy to talk to everyone.

The salsa class

Trying out a salsa class in Trinidad at about 36 degrees Celsius and loads of humidity

More of Cuba II

-Two major things I have noticed about the Cuban way of life. First of all, they are very innovative. The necessity taught them so. They will try and make money out of everything, be it that they assemble bikes or cars or they find innovative ways to answer every possible request you might have.

Secondly, they have this sharing culture, compartiendo todo. Everything they have, though often little, they will share. The solidarity spirit is more than obvious. On our bus ride to Santa Clara, my friend Adelina, as other passengers, was completely shivering from the very strong air con. Noticing her, this random man just handed her his blanket that he had on him.

-It might sound as a cliché, but Cuba is the most musical country I have been to so far. Music is part of everyday life, just like water or food. Every car or bus has Cuban music playing, every youngster on the street is accompanied by a tape recorder or a CD player, everyone in club knows the lyrics of all the songs and frenetically move their hips to the rhythm. Most of old people sit outside their houses on folding chairs and you can hear the radio inside playing Cuban music. Every hotel, bar, restaurant or club will most of the times have live music. You cannot take music out of Cubans, it is a language they learn long before they know how to speak or walk. La musica es la vida.

-El Ron. Everywhere, be it on the street, be in on the beach, in the water, at any time of the day, a sip (or more) of rhum is a must. Most Cubans seem to always have handy a bottle of rhum and a shot glass. And they are more than glad to share it with new and old friends due to their compartiendo culture. What however surprised me most was that they were fine drinking ron straight out of the bottle during daytime when it was 40 degrees Celsius. I loved the explanation I've got from a Cuban: "We want to be hotter on the inside than it's outside".

-The flirting and loving nature. I have never heard so many terms of endearment on a day to day basis. Everywhere I go, the shop, street or bar, I hear only "que desea la princesa?" (what would the princess like), "mi vida" (my life) or "mi amor" (my love). At the beginning I must confess I found this a bit strange, maybe over-friendly. Even my friend Adelina asked a bici-taxi driver why absolutely everyone (from 10 years old to elder men) makes this squeaking sound with their lips when we pass by. He jokingly explained to us it's their way of expressing "Me gustas. Eres linda" (I like you, you are pretty). When they hand me over something, they do it with both hands as a sign or importance or affection. When they greet me, they grab both of my hands between their hands. What can I say, it's not so bad getting used to this :)

One night in Trinidad

Cuba is becoming more and more like a crazy electric dream, time is losing its essence and its spirit is capturing me more and more...

I know I've already posted about salsa dancing in Cuba, but my last night in Trinidad deserves an entire new post. It was incredible, still can't wrap my head around it, will hopefully try to put it into words for the moment (Ying, my friend whom I've met at the salsa class has some photos she will send to me and after I will share them with you). But it was probably one of the best nights I'll have on this trip.

After the salsa class, Ying (my new Chinese friend I met earlier on in salsa class) and I decided to go for dinner before hitting the town. We opted for a place called Guitarra Mia which is in my opinion the best place for dinner in Trinidad. It had an old colonial wooden interior, candlelight dinner, incredibly friendly atmosphere. To top it up, a random troubadour walked in and starting playing the Spanish guitar. The sound he was making was like the guitar was crying. I was completely hooked!

When the waitress woke me up from my reverie to take our order, I opted for the local dish: tostones rellenas (deep fried bananas stuffed with minced crab and garlic). Delicious! To that I added 1 glass of homemade pina colada. OK, two pinas coladas :)

Next, we went to Palenque de los Congos Reales. This was an open patio where initially a live band was playing son (it's the same style that those from the famous Buena Vista Social Club play; authentic Cuban). After, we had the chance of seeing another eclectic show: soulful African rhythms and energetic glass and fire-eating dancers. They were holding such a still and terryfing facial expression interrupted from time to time by some tribal screams that some ladies stood up from their chairs and left.

At some point, they needed a volunteer for one of their acts. One of them snucks behind me and points me to go on the stage. I politely decline. The next second, he completely ignores my gesture, grabs my arm and gets me on the stage. There I am faced with the ultimate challenge: stepping/dancing over the edge of a sword which was poking a man's belly. Was not too keen on doing that, but, hey, who can say no to some terryfing African tribal dancers?

At the end of the show when they collecting the usual tip for the performance, someone comes behind my back and gives me a kiss on my forehead. It was my salsa teacher greeting me already like an old friend. When telling him that Ying and I want to move to this famous Las Cuevas club, him and a salsa teacher friend of his say they want to join us.

While the 4 of us were walking on the street, the police stops them and asks for their IDs. Then they start investigating them with regards of what they do and so on, the whole thing lasting a few minutes. At the end, I was my salsa teacher what was that about. He tells me not to worry as it's a routine check up. Obviously not satisfied with this reply, I dig deeper and find out that this happened because they were with two turistas. "In Cuba", he says, "the tourist needs to be looked after. We need to make the country very safe for them". Then he tells me how 10 years ago as a Cuban you could get into trouble if you addressed a foreigner on say the bus or train.

We start making our way to the club. This was literally climbing a hill through the middle of a forest on the outskirts of the city. "Where on Earth are they taking us?", I thought to myself. And then we see it. OK, I knew the place is called Las Cuevas which stands for literally "The Caves", but I imagined it'll be a place decorated cave style, not that we will be descending into an actual underground cave to dance salsa!! The interior was impressive, they've fixed huge speakers to the cave walls and you could totally smell a different air. Somehow, you could not feel at all the cigarette smoke.

Right after Ying and I paid for our entrance fees (CUC 3 per person, the equivalent of USD 3), we notice that the salsa teachers didn't follow us in. When looking back, I see them making a sign to come back. When approaching them, they tell us they don't have enough money to pay for their own entrance fees. Ying and myself decide to pay for them. I said to myself this is a tip for extra salsa lessons and decide to still have a great time.

The atmosphere inside was incredible. Lights reflected in a special way in the cave, everyone was dancing, everyone was smiling, it was definitely a good time. At some point, they play "Represent, represent Cuba", the Spanish version. Never seen something like this in a club. Literally everyone was off their chairs and the Cubans were singing and dancing the lyrics like they were the ones to have composed them. Magnetic and crazy!

Not long after that, our salsa teachers start an impromptu performance. They both dance to a reggaeton song, bending all over to the floor in perfect syncronizing, gathering rounds of applauds.

I have learned how to dance many styles that night: merengue, reggaeton, salsa, son, bachata and many others.

On my way home, after dropping Ying at her casa, I head towards my accomodation which was 7 minutes walk. Nobody was on the streets at the time. Suddenly, at some corner I see the police car. One of the officers steps out of the car and makes a sign to approach him. After he ensures I speak Spanish, he starts asking me all sorts of questions such as where I am from and where am I staying in Trinidad. I was impatiently thinking I do not have any sort of ID on me.

Hearing I am from Romania, he asks if I am from Transylvania (classic questions I get asked quite often). When he hears I am not from Transylvania, he follows: "Ah, I knew about Transylvania since that is the home of Dracula. But I actually know that Dracula was inspired from a leader that you Romanians really love and respect and he defended you against the Otoman empire. It was the German-born writer Bram Stoker who inspired himself from these stories and came up with Dracula".

I literally was in deep shock when I heard this. For 8 years since I left Romania, nobody who is non-Romanian and has never met any Romanians knew this story and so accurately. Eveyone thinks that the vampires originate from Romania and very, very few actually are aware that our leader that inspires the story of Dracula is actually respected and we consider him as one of our representative leaders of all time.

I had to know how come he knew that. He said: "I know from this application on my phone. It's called Wikipedia". Then he adds:"What are you doing tomorrow? Would you like to go on a date with me? Can I have your phone number and e-mail address?".

Ay, Cubans!